Adventures in Egypt – Installment #3. Description of a bucket-list trip, a combination land excursion and river cruise on the Nile River in Egypt.
See previous blog posts: Adventures in Egypt and Adventures in Egypt – Installment #2
Viking Welcome Briefing
The hour-long welcome briefing on Sunday, our second day in Cairo, introduced the group to our three Program Directors – Osama, Fouad and Suzan. The group was split into three, with each group assigned one of the three experienced Egyptologists and guides who would be with us throughout our adventures.
At 9:00 a.m. on our second day in Cairo we were off for a full 8-hour day of excursions, including visiting two UNESCO sites.
Adventures in Egypt – Installment #3, Day 2 Highlights
The Sakkara Step Pyramid
Our first stop was the necropolis of Sakkara, an archeological site containing a complex of ancient Egyptian tombs on the West bank of the Nile. The site is home to the famous Step Pyramid, the world’s oldest known stone building and first pyramid.
The Step Pyramid complex was built by King Djoser, first king of the 3rd Dynasty (Old Kingdom) around 2,700 B.C. We entered the complex via a narrow portal in a great wall that once surrounded the necropolis.
Unlike the construction of some other pyramids, King Djoser’s burial chamber lies at the bottom of a shaft in the center of the pyramid.
Pyramid of Teti/Mastaba of Kagemni
We also visited the nearby tomb and burial chamber of King Teti, the first king of the 6th Dynasty (c. 2345-2323 B.C.) and the tomb and burial chamber of Kagemni, his Chief Justice and Vizier early in his reign.
King Teti
The outer pyramid of Teti looked more like a small hill or a pile of rubble than a pyramid. Over the centuries stones from the pyramid had been pilfered and repurposed.
To enter the tomb, we descended the walkway set at a steep angle in a bent over position. The long walkway, a wooden ramp, was outfitted with wooden crosspieces to aid traction.
Unlike the exterior, the interior of the tomb was in good condition. The walls were literally covered with inscriptions known as Pyramid Texts. The tomb contained a stone sarcophagus with a fragment of the lid. The inside the the sarcophagus also contained inscriptions, which is apparently unusual.
Unfortunately, my photo’s of the interior did not turn out.
Chief Justice/Vizier Kagemni
The Kagemni mastaba is the largest mastaba (a type of ancient Egyptian tomb) in the necropolis, and is very well-preserved. The workmanship of the carving was exceptional, and many of the original colors remained vivid. I found it especially interesting given that the carvings included numerous scenes from everyday life (fishing, herding animals, etc.).
Our morning proved the value of having an expert guide. Osama was both informative and entertaining as he explained, among other things, the beliefs of the time, the inscriptions carved on the walls and what they represented, as well as the stories they told.
Nile Carpet School
On our way to lunch after leaving the archaeological cemetary site, we stopped at the Nile Carpet School, one of several similar “schools” in the small village of Saqqara. While they are called schools, they are family-run businesses that offer the local villagers the opportunity to learn a specialized craft and earn an income.
We were welcomed to the workroom, and watched with great interest as several artisans worked on at large rug in progress. While many of the rugs made in the facility are 100% Egyptian cotton, others include wool and silk.
We were introduced to the proprietor’s son who was busy at work. He was on holiday from school and earning some money. His fingers flew as he plucked and wove strands of cotton thread while following the rug pattern. At another nearby loom two local women were also busy at work.
An expert finisher demonstrated the art of shearing a rug using hand scissors/clippers to level the pile height, thus defining the design and make the colors pop! Amazing.
Next door was the showroom, a large well-lit room containing what had to be thousands of rugs of various sizes, colors, and patterns. It was a sight to see, and the quality was evident. Several members of our group purchased rugs of various sizes. Those purchasing large room sized rugs arranged for the rugs to be delivered after they had returned home.
Sakkara Palm Club
Our next stop, after leaving the Nile Carpet School, was the nearby Sakkara Palm Club where our group was booked for lunch. The Sakkara Palm Club is a resort that includes a hotel, a large swimming pool, numerous palms, and lush landscaping throughout the extensive grounds.
We were greeted as we entered the premises by several musicians playing lively Egyptian music.
We enjoyed the landscaping as we made our way through the grounds to a rustic open air covered pavilion outfitted with long tables and chairs.
Lunch included a buffet of assorted authentic Egyptians dishes, as well as a nearby grilled meat station. Bottled water was included with lunch, and wine or beer and soft drinks were available for a charge.
After enjoying a relaxing lunch, we returned to the bus to make our way back to Cairo and the Cairo Citadel (also known as the Citadel of Saladin). We had noted the Citadel several times in passing as it dominates the skyline.
The Cairo Citadel
The Cairo Citadel, also known as the Citadel of Saladin, was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979.
A medieval fortification near the center of Cairo, the Citadel was the seat of the Egyptian government and the residence of its rulers for almost 700 years (13th to 19th century).
It underwent several major modifications during that time, the last major modification (1805-1848) undertaken by Muhammad Ali Pasha who demolished many of the older buildings and built new palaces and various other buildings throughout the site giving it much of its present form.
We learned from Osama the next day, while visiting the pyramids at Giza, that the Citadel was constructed using stones, particularly limestone, taken from the Giza pyramids and other ancient structures.
The now historic site is also home to several mosques, including the Muhammad Ali Mosque.
Muhammad Ali Mosque
The Muhammad Ali Mosque, also known as the Alabaster Mosque, was built in 1848 A.D. Both the exterior and interior of the mosque are impressive.
Also of note are its twin minarets, the highest in Egypt.
In the outer courtyard of the mosque Osama, our guide, pointed out to us the copper clock tower which was constructed by local artisans to house the clock gifted to Muhammad Ali Pasha by Louis Philippe of France in 1845 A.D. The clock was rather recently repaired and renovated after not working for decades.
Muhammad Ali Pasha in turn, gifted the King of France an obelisk of Ramesses II (c 1279-1214 B.C) that had stood in front of Luxor Temple. Today, that obelisk can be seen in the Place de la Concorde Square, Paris.
To Sum Up
At the end of a long and active day the group was glad to return to the hotel and rest up for the next day and another eight-hours of excursions. On the schedule – the Grand Egyptian Museum and the Giza Pyramids!
Dinner was again on our own, and my friend and I decided to remain in the hotel to dine before turning in.
Comments on Adventures in Egypt – Installment #3?
What has been your experience at the necropolis of Sakkara and/or the Cairo Citadel? What would you add?
Please feel free to comment and share your experiences as I deviate from my Sacramento-centric blog to share my friend and my adventures in Egypt and Jordan over the upcoming weeks.
As always, my blog posts reflect my personal perspective.
See Upcoming Blog Post: Adventures in Egypt – Installment #4
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